Around the Isle of Bora Bora
Isolated and untouched, Bora Bora has a mystical relationship with sun and sea, encircled by a jewel of a lagoon.
James Michener had proclaimed Bora Bora as the “most beautiful island in the world” and he was right. Yet, despite a never-ending tide of words that has extolled its beauty no writer has gotten it right.
It’s easy to understand. You just can’t describe a place with the softest air landing upon your skin and with views and sunsets that outdo any glossy magazine photo spread.
We stayed at the famous Hotel Bora Bora, a most memorable resort. Opened in 1961, the hotel pioneered the now iconic Tahitian over-water bungalow architecture in 1970, now seen throughout French Polynesia. For almost 50 years, jet set luminaries, such as Jackie Onassis, have indulged in stays at this private, dreamy resort. We learned that Robert Redford had just checked out.
We checked into a garden bungalow with a swimming pool (referred to as a fare). As we toured our one bedroom cottage, fragrant with native sandalwood, we discovered two sarongs arranged upon our bed with hibiscus blooms and a hand-written welcome note from the manager. Outside, tall black volcanic walls surrounded a small yard with our personal pool and sundeck.
But this luxuriously legend of a hotel is no more.
Hotel Bora Bora’s owner today, Aman Resorts, mysteriously closed the resort in 2008 for “reconstruction” in anticipation of its 50th anniversary in 2011. Yet, the resort still remains shuttered. Today, those iconic overwater bungalows are slowly and tragically rotting away in the tropical tradewinds.
Aquatic sports are king in Bora Bora but after days of sailing and snorkeling the lagoon, we decided to circumnavigate the isle to to view local life and see what’s enfolded within those emerald cliffs. Since public transport is nonexistent, we headed to Vaitape, the main town and wharf. The island’s population only numbers around 10,000. There, we rented a cranky, gas-powered, glorified golf cart. We set off on the clean, flat, winding Circle Island Road for a twenty mile jaunt past little churches and communities and spectacular vistas. We stopped for lunch to dine on the freshest seafood at Bloody Mary’s, a must.
Here are the photos.
Where is Bora Bora?
Bora Bora lies in the Society Islands’ leeward group, about 140 miles northwest of Papeete in French Polynesia, an overseas collectivity, or region, of France in the Pacific Ocean. French and Tahitian are largely spoken on the isle with little English speakers. Be sure to upload a translation app on your phone and pray for cell service when it’s needed.
Perhaps originally named Pora Pora in the Tahitian language, meaning “First Born,” according to 18th- and 19th-century accounts, the isle is a volcanic caldera surrounded by a gin-clear lagoon and a barrier reef. In its center rise the remnants of an extinct volcano, creating Mount Pahia and Mount Otemanu, the highest point at 2,385 feet. Beyond the reef lie the islands of Tahaa, Raiatea, Maupiti, Mootu, and Toopua.
Everyone should experience Bora Bora’s luminous beauty at least once in their lifetimes.
How To Get To Bora Bora
If you are going to Bora Bora, I’m very happy for you. It won’t be easy to get there but the trip is worth it. After a seven-hour flight from Los Angeles, you’ll change planes at Papeete on the island of Tahiti at the Fa’a’ā International Airport (PPT). From there, you must hop aboard an Air Tahiti puddle jumper for a 40-minute flight, which serves the Bora Bora Airport (BOB) daily. The tiny airport’s World War II-era airstrip was cut and paved into the islet of Motu Mute. From there, being dreamy Bora Bora, you must board your resort’s speedy boat for transport across the lagoon. Most resorts occupy a section of Bora Bora’s coral reef that encircles the island.
Bora Bora Resorts
Old South Sea romance still lives today at the five-star luxury resorts nestled upon the coral reef encircling the island – French Polynesia’s finest and most expensive. Though standard hotel rates run from $500 to $2,000 per night, I’ve found vacation packages to Bora Bora at Costco Travel.
Here are the two best resorts:
Bora Bora Dining
Don’t expect much culinary-wise outside of your resort, which will offer five star chefs and the finest French wines. But a visit to Bloody Mary’s is a must. Famous for its thatched roof, open to the trade winds, you’ll pad across the restaurant’s white sand floor to sit on stools made of coconut stump at wooden slab tables. Before seating, the maitre’d at the entrance will sweep his arm across the restaurant’s living menu, a large, iced display of fresh lagoon seafood.
